Staining and Finishing Wood

As with priming and painting, there's not a lot of technique involved with applying wood stains and finishes. But there are factors to consider before starting a finishing project and a few basics to remember as you begin.

Sealing Bare Wood

To make unfinished wood less porous, apply a sealer to the surface before staining. That'll help the stain spread evenly, avoiding spotty or splotchy areas which can really be a problem on the exposed end grain of wood pieces.

You can can mix your own solution by combining your topcoat material with an equal amount of solvent or buy a wood grain filler in a color matching the natural color of your wood. Use a clean rag to apply either product, wipe off any excess (a plastic scraper works

best with the wood grain filler) and then lightly sand the wood after it's dry. Then it's ready for staining. By the way, there are products that combine both the sealing and staining functions.

Staining Options

Water-Based Liquid Stains are growing in popularity because they clean up with soap and water and they dry quickly. They're now available in a wide range of colors as well. The main drawback is that they can raise the surface grain and require sanding to smooth out.

Oil-Based Gel Stains are also popular because they're easy to apply with a rag, they don't run on the surface and they don't raise the grain. But they're harder to clean up and they don't come in as many colors.

Penetrating Oil Stains, also known as "Danish oils" or "rubbing oils" are often used on antiques and on trim with more attractive grain patterns. They penetrate more deeply than the other types of stains, color evenly and do not raise the grain.

Testing Stain Colors

There's no guarantee what the stain you choose will look like once it's applied to the wood you're finishing. So it's a good idea to test the stain first on an inconspicuous part of your job or on a scrap of the same wood species.

You might even test a couple other stain options before making a final decision.

Applying Stains

Stains can be applied with bristle brushes, foam brushes or staining cloths.

With liquid stains, you apply a thick coat with any of those tools and allow it to soak in a while depending on how dark you want it and the instructions on the label.

Then wipe away the excess, let it dry and buff it with a fine abrasive pad before finishing.

If the color seems to dark, you can try lightening it by scrubbing with water or mineral spirits. If it's too light, apply further coats until the proper color is achieved.

With gel stains, the staining cloth works best, and you can actually rub it into the wood to help it penetrate.

Let the stain soak in a while as with liquid stains, wipe away the excess and buff the surface with a clean cloth.

With gel stains, manufacturers usually recommend at least 3 coats of stains for proper protection. Let it dry after the third coat and buff it with an abrasive pad before applying the finish coat.

With penetrating oils, rub 2 coats into the wood, letting the first coat dry for an hour and wiping away the excess before applying the second coat.

Let that dry overnight and then buff it with an abrasive pad coated with a few drops of the oil. Let that dry 72 hours before finishing.

Finishing Options

Water-Based Polyurethane:

Oil-Based Polyurethane:

Resin Oil or Tung Oil Finish:

Applying Finishes

Both water-based and oil-based polyurethanes can be spread with bristle or foam brushes, and on larger surfaces like floors you can use a painting pad with an extension pole.

As it's spread out, the polyurethane will often show brush marks but those usually disappear as it levels itself out before drying.

Don't over-brush the surface trying to smooth out the brush marks yourself. That introduces air bubbles which can dry in place and require extra sanding to remove, especially with the quick-drying water-based products.

And don't apply it too thickly, because that can result in visible runs and drips that can also dry in place.

After the first coat's dry, wet-sand it with a fine grit abrasive pad and wipe it clean with a tack cloth (a sticky cloth available at home centers for removing dust from wood surfaces).

3 or more coats will usually be required, so check the product's label and repeat the coating process as often as needed.

Resin and Tung oil finishes are generally rubbed into the wood with a cloth and allowed to set a few minutes before wiping away the excess.

Allow that to dry 24 hours. Buff that with a polishing cloth and apply the next coat.

3 or more coats will also usually be required with these finishes, but in any case you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations as listed on the label.